Dermatologists share tips for women
Newswise, November 15, 2016— People experience many changes as
they age, and that includes changes in their skin. The body’s largest organ
evolves over time, so it’s important for one’s skin care routine to evolve with
it.
Although dermatologists’ skin care recommendations for each
patient will depend on that patient’s age, there are a few core steps
dermatologists advise virtually every woman to take:
1. Select products tailored to
your skin type — for example, special formulations for sensitive skin,
moisturizing products for dry skin, and oil-free or noncomedogenic options for
oily skin.
2. Protect your skin from
exposure to ultraviolet radiation from the sun and indoor tanning beds, which
can lead to skin cancer and early skin aging. The American Academy of
Dermatology recommends that you shield yourself from the sun’s harmful UV rays
by seeking shade, wearing protective clothing and using a broad-spectrum,
water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher.
3. Use a retinoid, unless it
dries out or irritates your skin. Retinoids increase cell turnover to exfoliate
clogged pores and reduce the appearance of fine lines, which means they can
effectively treat both acne and wrinkles.
While these steps form the foundation of most skin care
regimens, each individual’s skin care routine should be based on her age and
her skin’s specific needs. To kick off National Healthy Skin Month, three
board-certified dermatologists discuss the top skin care concerns of women in
their 20s, 30s and 40s, and provide skin care tips for each age group.
Women in their 30s: At the crossroads of
prevention and treatment
Dark spots
When women in their 30s come into her Augusta, Ga., private practice to seek
treatment for dark spots, board-certified dermatologist Lauren Eckert Ploch,
MD, MEd, FAAD, always provides them with tips for prevention. “If you have dark
spots at this point in your life, you’re at risk for getting more as you grow
older,” she says.
Because UV exposure causes dark spots, Dr. Ploch reminds her
patients in their 30s about the importance of sun protection. When applying
their SPF 30 sunscreen each morning, she says, it’s vital for women in this age
group to make sure they cover their neck and chest in addition to their face, especially
if they commute.
“Because UVA rays can travel through window glass, you need to
make sure you’re protected if you’re spending a lot of time in the car or on a
train,” she says.
Women who received unprotected UV exposure when they were
younger may start to see dark spots on their temples and cheeks when they reach
their 30s, Dr. Ploch says, and these spots may be mistaken for melasma, a
condition that causes brown patches to appear on the face.
While lightening agents like hydroquinone are a good option
for melasma, she says, they usually aren’t effective in treating dark spots.
Instead, Dr. Ploch recommends that patients with dark spots
follow a multipronged treatment plan. In addition to sun protection, she says,
topical vitamin C and retinoids may be used for both treatment and prevention.
Laser surgery and
cryosurgery are also options for reducing the appearance of dark spots, she
says, but these procedures should only be performed by a dermatologist or
another experienced medical professional.
Wrinkles
Dr. Ploch estimates that about half of her patients in their 30s are dealing
with both wrinkles and acne.
As a result, she says, many patients in this age group may not
be able tolerate wrinkle treatments designed for more mature skin because these
heavier formulas can aggravate acne or cause milia, small cysts that occur when
dead skin cells become trapped at the surface of the skin.
Dr. Ploch recommends women in their 30s use a retinoid to
address both wrinkles and acne.
“Retinoids are my go-to wrinkle treatment for women in this
age group,” she says. “In addition to improving your skin’s current appearance,
they also help build collagen, which can lead to more voluminous skin in your
40s and 50s.”
Dr. Ploch also suggests that women in their 30s use a light
antioxidant serum to protect their skin from the elements and improve signs of
early skin aging, and she says those who are concerned about wrinkles also may
want to consider botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid fillers.
A low dose of botulinum toxin can minimize muscle movements
that lead to future wrinkles, she says, and hyaluronic acid fillers can restore
volume loss, reducing the appearance of lines around the mouth.
Spider veins
While spider veins are one of the most common problems for women in their 30s,
Dr. Ploch says, they’re also one of the least-addressed problems in this age
group.
Many women believe that treatment would be too invasive or
expensive, she says, so they leave the condition unaddressed, allowing it to
get worse as they get older.
According to Dr. Ploch, however, laser surgery and
sclerotherapy are two accessible and noninvasive treatment options that women
in their 30s may want to consider if they have spider veins. She also suggests
that women in this age group take preventive measures against the emergence and
progression of this condition.
Pregnancy and frequent standing are two risk factors for
spider veins, Dr. Ploch says, and the condition takes several years to develop,
which is why it often appears in women when they reach their 30s.
To help relieve the pressure that causes spider veins, she
recommends that women wear compression socks, elevate their legs when possible
and exercise, especially if they work in a field that requires prolonged
standing, like health care or education.
Women in their 40s: Improvement through
noninvasive interventions
Skin laxity
As people age, their skin begins to lose collagen and elastin, making it
thinner and looser, without the resilient, springy quality of youthful skin,
says board-certified dermatologist Anne M. Chapas, MD, FAAD, a clinical
instructor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York.
Skin laxity is most prevalent on the face and neck, she says,
but it can occur anywhere on the body, including the arms, abdomen and thighs.
Everyone will experience some amount of skin laxity as they
get older, Dr. Chapas says, but the degree of laxity depends on many factors,
including sun damage, exposure to pollution, diet, weight fluctuations and
lifestyle factors such as smoking.
“Women likely will start to notice skin laxity in their 40s,
but they may not want to undergo an invasive procedure to correct it,” she
says. “Fortunately, there are noninvasive options ideally suited for women in
this situation.”
According to Dr. Chapas, energy-based treatments such as
microfocused ultrasound and radiofrequency microneedling can help improve skin
laxity by promoting the production of collagen and elastin to create firmer
skin.
“Imagine wrapping your
loose skin in shrink wrap to pull everything tighter — that’s the kind of
effect these energy devices can have,” she says.
Dr. Chapas says filler injections also can improve skin laxity
by replacing lost collagen and elastin. “If you picture your skin as a
tablecloth, then you can think of fillers as a sturdier table for it to rest
on,” she says.
Volume changes
In addition to losing collagen and elastin as they age, Dr. Chapas says, women
also lose fat in areas like the face and hands, resulting in a loss of skin
volume. As a result, she says, women in their 40s may experience sagging skin,
as well as prominent bones and veins.
According to Dr. Chapas, noninvasive treatments with dermal
fillers and energy devices can help restore lost volume in addition to
improving skin laxity. These treatments also may be combined to provide the
best possible results, she says.
In addition to seeking treatment for lost collagen, Dr. Chapas
also recommends that women in their 40s take steps to preserve the collagen
they still have.
“It’s important to continue protecting your skin from the sun
and the elements as you age,” she says, “and you also should consider
incorporating topical growth factors and peptides into your skin care routine.”
Unwanted fat
Women in their 40s may have unwanted body bulges as the result of a slowing
metabolism, pregnancy or other lifestyle changes, Dr. Chapas says. Even if
women exercise regularly and are otherwise fit, she says, it may be difficult
for them to eliminate fat in areas where the body is designed to store it,
including the torso and the legs.
According to Dr. Chapas, women in their 40s who have isolated
pockets of fat are ideal candidates for noninvasive body sculpting procedures
like focused ultrasound, thermal energy treatment and cryolipolysis, all of
which create areas of damaged fat that the body gradually removes.
While these treatments can be performed anywhere on the body,
the waistline and thighs are the most commonly treated areas, Dr. Chapas says,
while the neck and bra spillover area are currently gaining popularity.
Dr. Chapas says interest in these body sculpting treatments
has surged in recent years because the procedures are noninvasive, quick and
effective, with little downtime for patients.
Although liposuction remains the gold standard for fat
removal, she says, other body sculpting procedures can provide subtle results
for women who want to address problem areas without undergoing an invasive
procedure.
No matter your age or skin concern, a board-certified
dermatologist can answer your questions about skin health and help you develop
a skin care plan that’s right for you.
In their own words: Dermatologists share their skin care secrets
Dr. Nada Elbuluk
“I wash my face twice a day with a mild cleanser and use a morning moisturizer
with SPF 30 or higher. If I’m having an acne breakout, I use an acne spot
treatment, typically with benzoyl peroxide and clindamycin. I also avoid the
urge to pick or squeeze at any acne, as I know this will cause more
inflammation and subsequent scarring. In the evening after cleansing, I use an
eye cream and facial cream with retinol and antioxidants. During the day, if I
know I will be outside for extended periods, I carry sunscreen in my bag so I
can reapply. I also keep an eye out for any new growths or changes I see on my
skin. Following these guidelines has helped my skin stay healthy, acne free,
skin cancer free, youthful and radiant.”
Dr. Lauren Ploch
“Each morning, I apply an antioxidant serum that contains vitamin C. I follow
this with a zinc oxide-containing sunscreen. I apply a retinoid product three
to four nights per week, which is as often as I can tolerate it without
irritation. I attribute my even, acne-free complexion to my retinoid — it’s the
one skin care product I could not go without.
“I have treated my dark spots with various lasers and found
them to be very effective as long as I protect myself from the sun after
treatment. For wrinkles, botulinum toxin has ensured that I don’t have any! I
started getting the occasional botulinum toxin injection in my mid 20s but
began regularly injecting myself every four to six months in my early 30s. I
prefer injecting smaller doses over the span of a few weeks to ensure that I
always retain some natural expression. I also had a hyaluronic acid filler
treatment last year and plan to follow up with additional treatments as
necessary to restore volume lost over the past decade.
“Because I work long hours on my feet, compression socks are a
must. I also wear them when traveling long distances, as sitting on a plane can
lead to swelling and increased pressure in the legs. I prefer laser therapy to
sclerotherapy for my small spider veins, and I elevate my legs at rest whenever
possible to prevent their recurrence.”
Dr. Anne Chapas
“I’ve had noninvasive radiofrequency tightening treatments and dermal fillers
regularly over the last few years. I also really like laser resurfacing, which
removes damaged skin cells and replaces them with new ones. I think that
smaller, regular, preventive in-office treatments, in addition to sun
protection and topical retinoid use, have helped to maintain my youthful,
healthier looking skin.
“Patients always comment on how ‘natural’ I look after I
explain the treatments that I’ve personally received. I think it serves as an
example that aesthetic treatments should look natural and healthy, not like
you’ve had a lot of ‘work done.’ As dermatologists, we are experts in what
healthy skin should look like and are the best-trained physicians to help
patients to achieve this goal.”